I worked with these five fashion models (Sarina, Abigail, Virginie, Frieda and Sam) in 2010 documenting very simple yet strong portraits of them with no hair or makeup or airbrushing done.
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Tag: beauty
I found this article in Marie Claire magazine (May 2010, South Africa), I’m not a magazine buyer so this probably got left at my house by a visitor or I tore it surreptitiously out of a magazine in a waiting room. The article is written by Zed Nelson about his then new book “Love Me” (Thames & Hudson).
Over a five year period this photographer visited 17 countries while documenting this project on society’s obsession with beauty and youth. The article published in Marie Claire was an intriguing read with some quite radical reportage style images… Here are my best bits with images taken from the article as well as from his website which had a wider range of the images published in the book:
I began Love Me when I was in my mid-thirties. I’m sure that was no coincidence. Like many long-term fascinations, I don’t know exactly when the idea seeded itself. Perhaps it began quite simply, one day, when I looked in the mirror and realised I would not live forever.
I’m sure I’m not alone in being surprised by that revelation. And I’m sure it comes at the age when you realise that the body you inhabit has been loaned to you, that it is not fully yours, not fully under your control. I realised, too, that the way I perceived myself was increasingly being influenced by others.
We live in a society that celebrates and iconizes youth. Beauty is a R1.1-trillion-a-year worldwide industry and the pursuit of body improvement has become like a new religion. The promise of bodily improvement is fuelled by advertising campaigns and commercially driven Western media, reflecting an increasingly narrow palette of beauty.
The modern Caucasian beauty ideal has been packaged and exported globally, and just as surgical operations to “Westernize” oriental eyes have become increasingly popular, so the beauty standard has become equally prescriptive. In Africa the use of skin-lightening and hair-straightening products is widespread. In South America, women have operations that bring them eerily close to the Barbie doll ideal, and blonde-haired models appear on the covers of most magazines. Anorexia is on the increase in Japan and, in China, beauty pageants – once banned as “spiritual pollution” – are now held across the country. “westernizing” the human body has become a new form of globalisation, and the homogenisation of appearance has made “Beauty” into a crude universal brand.
The more rigorously our vision is trained to appreciate the artificial, the more the beauty industry benefits. But who creates this culture? However much we may confidently point the finger at sinister commercial forces, we can’t deny our own tacit involvement. Like it or not, we have created a world in which there are enormous social, psychological and economic rewards and penalties attached to the way we look.
Los Angeles, USA.
Few of us can deny we want to be attractive. Don’t we all won’t to be loved? But have we been brainwashed into believing that in order to be loved, to be loveable, we need smaller noses, bigger breasts, tighter skin, longer legs, flatter stomachs and to remain forever youthful? Banks now offer loans for plastic surgery in Europe, and families in the USA with annual incomes under $25 000 (R185 487) account for 30% of all cosmetic surgery patients. Americans now spend more each year on beauty than they do on education.
As our role models become ever younger and more idealized, we are so afraid of ageing that the quest for youthful preservation generates an obsession with our bodies. As we align our sense of self-worth with self-image, the psychological and emotional consequences are tortuous….
This is one of the key topics I’m fascinated with myself. And questions like “what kind of beautifying is ok and what is extreme or over-the-top and who is the judge?” often come up.
At what point of effort or interference, with how your body appears naturally, is it too much, when do we go too far? Where is the line between a normal need for good presentation of ourselves and an excess of it fed by media? Is a needle and a blade the tipping point or not? Teeth bleaching or whitening tooth paste? Liposuction or excessive dieting? Eyeliner, mascara and eye brow tweezing? Labiaplasty? GHD’s? I suppose ones answers are derived from ones individual context and history…
I consider myself reasonably tom-boyish or maybe I just don’t have the inclination to maintain a certain kind of “up-keep” I see in many women around me. Although even I am happy to have laser hair removal and gelish re-applied bi-monthly (if I get around to doing it)… Its also ridiculously expensive to maintain some of the basic beauty standards without spending in excess of a couple of thousand a month which is obviously exactly the spending the beauty industry is punting. But apart from spending money and time (wasted?) “beautifying” or maintaining, we are basically self-made slaves to exactly this industry Zed discusses and looks at so well in his book.
I enjoyed these this comment about the book on his site:
“From sexed up teenage club-hoppers, to prison beauty queens, to a brilliantly curated Alain de Botton quote, the book is a cover-to-cover gem that explores, with superb creative direction and a merciless confrontation with superficiality, the most uncomfortable fringes of cultural anthropology.”
-Maria Popova
Pretty to Pageant
I invited Sabian Ransome to my studio immediately after her first competitive experience in the :”Bikini Fitness Division”, her spray tan was already starting to get patchy but her memories were fresh. I wanted to understand how the practice worked and what she had put into it.
I can’t help but see the sport as being yet another example of how medias portrayal of women as polished, perfected, sexualised objects has effects on what we choose to do with our own bodies and feelings of self identity which in turn we portray back to society.
I recently came across women’s bodybuilding here when I noticed two of my previous models from Playboy South Africa competing and posting pics to their Facebook pages. Both were at that stage competing in NABBA (National Amateur Body-Builders’ Association) competitions, and I stalked their backstage and onstage photos intrigued by how transformed they appeared from my own recent documentation of them both. I had not identified them with my notion of the practice and although my Amazonian-strong-women-in-mini-kinis image is outdated its not altogether lost in the world both Sabian and Alexis chose to compete in.
I would separate Bodybuilding into parts: there’s the ultra-dedicated body work, training and diet, then there’s how the contestants choose to present their bodies when on stage and lastly they are judged for how they look since it is a competition.
What is confusing is that it is not an athletic competition to watch since competitors present their bodies like objects on stage only. The competitors choose to present their bodies in an over-feminized way, yes this is my opinion and I wonder if it has to do with possibly counter balancing the masculinity perceived in muscularity? The onstage “look” these contestants simulate is definitely quite plasticised, that of a Barbie-doll in quite a few aspects. Anyhow, Sabian agreed to come in so that I could document the look in the nondescrpit-ness of the studio environment. Below is an interview with her which I found insightful as well as the completed images I created from our meeting.
An Interview: Fitness Contestants first experiences
Sabian unpacked her competition costume from her Western Provence tog-bag and dressed while chatting openly to me about her first experiences. I asked her to start by telling me about the preparation stages…
Before competing, I had no idea diuretics existed. Most of the competitors use them to completely dehydrate their bodies, making ones skin more taught, and providing for a ‘harder’, leaner look. Many competitors do a complete carbohydrate drop a few weeks before, and will carbo-load the day before they are on stage, this makes the muscles fuller and also provides for a ‘harder’ appearance. On the day “Spray ‘n Cook” provides the ultimate ‘beach glow’ and deep heat, Bar Ones and wine makes you more vascular.
How do you think competing with your body in fitness pageants will effect how people see you or treat you now?
Unfortunately there is an insane amount of pressure from the public (through praise) as well as individuals like my manager, to stay in ‘beach bikini shape’. I started to sound a lot like the girl with the eating problem that was self absorbed every time I went out. ‘Do you have fat free milk?’. ‘Please hold the burger bun, and I don’t want any chips.’ I didn’t like that, as it’s a far cry from who I am.
I started to find myself wanting to get leaner or more ripped, not because I wanted to feel good about my body, but because that’s the way I HAD too look. The obsession with ‘ticking all the boxes’ takes over, and you become pretty much indifferent to any compliments. Nothing anyone says can change the fact that you know you’re not lean or hard enough. You stop enjoying your body, and begin to live outside of it.
The bodily preparation through your diet of measured portions and fitness regime was extreme. It says a lot about both proving things,- to yourself or others I don’t know… I also find the juxtaposition between “contestants” at a “pageant” to fitness/sporting competition very unusual, what are your thoughts on this? Basically fitness presented as bedazzled…?
The more bedazzled the more attention. I think one of the reasons for the ‘over doing’ is to have a more feminine appeal, in what is perceived to be very manly industry. Secondly, every athletes main intention is to stand out on stage. I myself have decided to go for a more ‘natural’ look next year (no padded bikini and a lot less sparkle). When I look at Images of myself on competition day, I’ll admit I think I look great, however, I don’t look like myself. I feel the sparkle detracts from what I have to show, and I feel I look too much like a Barbie, rather than a real person.
The irony is probably defined in this last statement Sabian made. When women compete on this athletic platform they transform themselves from athlete to object, this is how I see it. The outcome in this particular sub-culture (can I call it that?) is of a very visual nature and so its easy to correlate the over-feminized presentation style of bodybuilding competitors with mass-medias polished version of a “perfect” women.
The focus on women by mass media and the nature of the imagery has effects on how we present ourselves. For me, Sabians natural beauty, and there’s lots of it, is lost at the competition stage and I wanted to try to express this paradox in the portrait sitting I did with her in my studio.
I feel as if many actions around me by women are in fact just responses to recurrent sexualization of all things feminine. John Berger comes to mind while I was processing these ideas, he wrote that “men act and women appear. Men look at women. Women watch themselves being looked at. This determines not only most relations between men and women but also the relation of women to themselves”.
Sabian is currently in the second year of her Sports Science degree and is probably one of the most dedicated and passionate women in fitness that I know, Sabs, thank you for sharing your experience so openly and with your usual big beautiful smile!
I worked with graphic designer Roxy of Good Design and her client Allison Meredith to create this series of marketing and brand images for her new health and beauty practice in Cape Town. You can see the full CI here. Really enjoyed shooting the therapy/beauty shots in this backlit style.
