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Projects

A Self-portrature Project: Week Two

So the self portrait project has continued and is evolving. Last week I again shot a pic per day and on Thursday also invited twenty friends to join in for their own portrait in the same lighting set-up.

The invitation was open ended, they could bring anything they wanted, would have some privacy, about 8 minutes in front of the camera and could chill and drink in our studio lounge and socialise during the waiting periods.

It is now Monday again and I didn’t feel like stopping so I’ve decided to continue, I’m not sure for how long. I’ll have to better co-ordinate my “button-pressers” though and make sure to have a good supply of wine in my studio for them!

Here are screen shots from my working folder of each day in order that I shot them last week:

Self Portraiture Project by Leah Hawker

Self Portraiture Project by Leah Hawker

Self Portraiture Project by Leah Hawker

Self Portraiture Project by Leah Hawker

Self Portraiture Project by Leah Hawker

Monday’s project was very personal, I suppose it’s a portrait of grief. On Tuesday I took all the Asian bondage rope I’ve used over the years for a number of projects and commissions and made myself into a rope sausage. The lighting is really classical and pretty. On Wednesday I’ll admit I was in a rush and had wanted to shoot a sweet candid portrait in one of my all-time-favorite dresses. The balloons were already in the studio for another shoot and I grabbed them. Thursday became my interactive shoot eve with friends and I dressed like my idea of a “female profession photographer”.

And lastly, I’d wanted to shoot a portrait covered in soap suds, the portrait idea had evolved when I remembered those shampoo hair style photos so many kids have taken of themselves when they’re sitting in the bath being laughed at  (lovingly) by a parent mid way through a bath-time-hair-wash session. I lit the image to look totally 50’s advertorial, I should almost be selling butter….

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Interviews & Conversations Women I've Shot

“The Housewives”, Nude Private Commissions:
This is Lynette

(Note: “The Housewives” was a term I fondly coined in 2006 after I started getting shoot requests from private, individual women who became my clients. Many of the women who contacted me were married and in their mid 30’s and were doing the shoots as gifts to their husbands. The folder in my archives is still called this and so I’ve stuck to it, in part just for the irony: most of these women are not “housewives” at all, but strong independent and forward thinking women who I have had the honour of documenting.

All are private commissions and the demographic has changed substantially over the years. Some I’m still in contact with, others I’ve totally lost contact with, some have become friends, some may wish not to have their real names used, others don’t mind, some may have their faces obscured for privacy reasons, others have generously shared their experiences of being photographed.)

Lynette Bester poses for a series of "Power Nude" inspired by Helmut Newton

I photographed Lynette Bester in September 2008 while I was part time lecturing in photography at Ruth Prowse Art School. Lynette is a well recognised South African artist who heads the the fine art course there as well as being a prolific creator and exhibitor of her own sculptures, drawings and prints.

We put the shoot together in two parts: The one part was inspired by Helmut Newtons “Here come the Girls”, a powerful and provocative series which we re-interpreted using the tools which Lynette creates much of her own art with. The second series of images was more sensual, lingerie based. I believe a shoot has a life of its own to some extent and I believe in leaving a certain space for spontaneousness, both in the shooting and in the post production stage.

Lynette Bester poses for a series of "Power Nude" inspired by Helmut Newton

Lynette Bester poses for a series of "Power Nude" inspired by Helmut Newton

I asked Lynette if she would put together some memories of the shoot for me, this is what she had to say:

After my first experience shooting with Leah on the Godiva project we spoke about her photographing me again, this time as one of her “Housewives” (or commercially treated commissions),  a series in which she endeavours to uncover, without exploiting, the innate sexuality of her female sitters. I wanted to feel what the women in her photographs looked like they were feeling.

We arranged a photo session at the studio at work over a weekend early in the summer. I remember having my first spray tan which was a bit strange but added to the sense of preparation. I remember doing my own hair and make-up. I remember feeling really awkward at first and then realizing everything was ok.

Leah did two photo series that day: one inspired by Helmut Newton, black and white, strong, monumental and holding my power-tools that empower me as an artist. I remember not being able to take my knickers off. I was still somewhat ashamed of my body. The second series were a set of softer, demure, reclining nudes wearing the white lingerie I had bought in London at the Soho, Agent Provocateur a few years earlier but had never worn. By the end of that series I was finally nude. I think there are two or three photographs where I am completely nude but showing nothing except my dark eyes in black and white.

Lynette poses in her Agent Provocature Lingerie

I look at them now and see an essence that Leah captured. An irreplaceable essence that is more than a nude and marks a timeless moment of self. Today, we are close friends and Leah has photographed me nude for another collaboration as well as candid friendship moments on our favourite dance floor, dinner parties and at the beach or expeditions to see a patch of local snow. 6 years after Shooting the Godiva project, in which she was involved and where we first met, I am 34 weeks pregnant and I am preparing for another photo-shoot with Leah.

Beautiful Lynette Bester poses for me for the second time

With a difficult pregnancy nearly behind me and wondering where the bikini clad self is hiding, I look forward to this photo shoot as part of finding what can so easily get lost when your body is strange to you, and that is simply being able to look at it with awe: at its shapes, it’s architecture, it’s engineering, it’s ability to create life and to be beautiful. In the coming weeks my body will be my own again, as sure as it will also be spring. Leah would have captured yet another moment when my body is strange to me just before it becomes my own again. A photograph: perhaps an integral ritual in (re)discovering the self. In the coming summer when I dare to wear my bikini again I will be able to look back at Leah’s photographs and comprehend yet another awkward moment in my own story of acceptance and awe.

This Saturday I’ll photograph Lynette again, with her round perfect pregnant belly. The process of working with women over time and witnessing her own changing sense of self and the stages of her life is an honour. Lynette, thank you for sharing your memories of this photo shoot, they are images I am still very proud to have worked on.

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Women I've Shot

Everything is about the “Selfie”

I’m so constantly aware of this pursuit for perfection in women around me. It appears in many different ways, be it eating disorders, aggressive beauty treatments, make-overs, insecurities, etc. It is the opposite of self-acceptance  I think it is created by our overexposure to advertising with its polished images of what is so-called-perfect mixed also with the strange importance we give to fame and celebrity. The byproduct of this pre-occupation is uncertainty about ones own self-image and an obsession with it. Of course also living in a social media “era” has made it even more vivid as we’re bombarded with images that have all been curated to depict how we see ourselves and others.

A staged "selfie" i shot of Yolandi during our cover shoot.
A staged “selfie” I shot of Yolandi during our cover shoot, made to look authentically safe taken.

The “selfie”, self-photo phenomenon, is a prime example of our self-identifying-obsession. The word itself, which I recently read was chosen as “Word of the Year for the Oxford English Dictionary”, just goes to show the extent of our new self-depicting obsession. The selfie trend tells us so much about how we selectively choose to portray ourselves to others based on what we assume is beautiful, acceptable, cool. It also picks up on the demand for authenticity in the subject via the amateur camera holder as apposed to the overly perfected images we are saturated with.

It was such  a relevant theme to pick up on for one of the cover shoots I was commissioned for earlier last year for magazine brand Playboy South Africa. The cover model, Yolandi Malherbe, is a past playmate and is very exposed to this issue through the social media she participates in, I liked the idea of playing with the irony of her self-mania on “her” cover, the look and concept of which were in my hands.

I photographed the Playboy South Africa April 2013 cover with Yolandi Malherbe as its cover “star”, her nudity covered with Polaroid “selfies”.
I photographed the Playboy South Africa April 2013 cover with Yolandi Malherbe as its cover “celebrity”, her nudity covered with Polaroid selfies.

I’ve been working with nudes, both commercially and in my own fine art based projects, since I started as a photographer. Many of the models I’ve worked with in the nude/swimwear etc genre now have  their own self created Facebook “fan” pages. Its such a strange platform and in most ways is very narcissistic, inviting an over-inflated concept of “self”.

A selection of the 100 polaroids I shot of Yolandi Malherbe on her cover shoot.
A selection of the 100 polaroids I shot of Yolandi Malherbe on her cover shoot for Playboy SA.

The models fill their pages with images of themselves; some professionally taken and the rest are often sexy selfies. The majority of the feedback and support they receive comes from anonymous followers (predominantly men from anywhere, often conservative countries) who enjoy the free “kick” thrown into their daily newsfeeds. I suppose that even though its 95% hot air it feeds a feeling of self-worth and therefore the behaviour is flourishing.

I styled my subject to reflect the self-within-the-self-within-the-self as a paradox, the twisted version we accept and create currently in a strange cycle between beauty and self identity.

An image from Yolandis pictorial where she poses taking her own selfies.
An image from Yolandi’s pictorial where she poses taking her own selfies with a vintage Polaroid camera.

In my series of images with Yolandi, apart from depicting her beautifully and sexily as the brand expects, I played with this notion of the Selfie as a kind of reversed insecurity, a tool we have started to use to gain a kind of attention. The images thus try to depict the model in layers: she is (1) the subject of the images and article, (2) she is photographed by me, (3) photographing herself, (4) showing you herself within the image again and (5) incorporate photos of herself within polaroids of herself which coyly draw attention to (6) the object of the images which is her own nudity/sexuality.

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Projects

A Self-portraiture Project: The Beginning

Half way through a self initiated project, the idea is to shoot a self portrait every week day for two weeks (or at least thats the plan for right now). It has already been both educational and compelling in ways I find surprising and expected.

Screen grab from my working folder of day 1 & 2.
Screen grab from my working folder of day 1 & 2.

Each day I must come up with an idea which I can shoot in my own studio with the help of a friend as my “button-presser”. The resulting ideas, images and experience have been insightful: to feel what it is like to be the subject of my camera with the demands I outlay on my models and how it feels to my body, the comparison of the images side by side and also how some ideas have been more intuitive while others are based on approaches to shoots I may have had in the past with a distinctly more commercial beauty aesthetic tied to them.

Screen grabs from shoot days 3, 4 & 5. These come from my working folder and the images still appear in their raw state.
Screen grabs from shoot days 3, 4 & 5. These come from my working folder and the images still appear in their raw state.

I think that the series will reflect the way I see myself in different contexts (the Professional, the Wacky Creative, the Woman, The Conceptualizer etc) as well as the way I’ve experienced societies take on women as the “sexy sex” and what I’ve learned about how my female subjects often feel about their own body identity. Somehow all these things are apparent to me in these five very different sets of images so far.

The demands on the body to pose and my feelings of self awareness are also heightened.

The questions I have about how much to effect or change the images in order to present the final “polished” versions remains unanswered.